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Safety & education: The Core of Trees & Tree Care Companies Tree Worker Killed by Falling Limb
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Safety & education: Expert Hints:
Fertilizing Trees and Lawns In the urban setting: Most plants lack the nutrients necessary to thrive. To help boost the nutrient level available to trees and lawns, homeowners can institute a program of routine fertilization. Well-nourished trees are more tolerant of insects, disease and unfavorable environmental conditions like drought. Fertilization can reduce the severity of drought injury and help trees recover more quickly. Fertilization programs are best managed by a tree and lawn care professional. In forests, trees grow in typically ideal conditions. Forest soils are rich in nutrients from leaf decomposition and other decaying plant matter. Landscape trees, unlike forest trees, are often subjected to compacted soils, poor drainage, restricted root areas as well as highway salts, air pollutants and competition from turf grass. Therefore, fertilizers can help trees replace nutrients, promote health and guard against related damage. In a landscape environment, the space surrounding trees is usually occupied by turf grass, which competes with trees for nutrients. Grass roots are more efficient at extracting nutrients from the topsoil than tree roots. They are more fibrous and closer to the surface; therefore, the grass roots absorb the fertilizer before it has a chance to reach the deeper tree roots. To increase nutrient absorption by the tree roots, the fertilizer must be applied below the grass roots. A subsurface tree fertilizer is applied in the top 4 to 12 inches of soil, which is where trees’ most active roots grow. The fertilizer injection technique also increases soil aeration, improving conditions for tree root growth. Trees can be fertilized with a slow-release form of nitrogen fertilizer. Applying a slow-release nitrogen fertilizer in the fall enables trees to assimilate the nutrients necessary for ample chlorophyll and subsequent carbohydrate production that eventually increases overall tree health. Like trees, lawns go through annual growth cycles — root growth occurs in the spring, shoots appear in the late spring or early summer and root growth occurs again in the fall after grass blades stop growing. For lawn fertilization, a combination that contains nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium is best. Outer Banks, NC – Abnormally strong winds are a hallmark of major storms like hurricanes or tornadoes. Very few things can withstand these high winds, including trees, which can sustain severe damage during a storm event. Trees differ in their ability to withstand strong winds. The density and strength of the wood, branch structure and attachment and expanse of root area all influence wind tolerance. Trees like live oaks, bald cypresses, Southern red oaks, Southern magnolias, white oaks and palms are most resistant to wind damage. The least resistant species include hickory, red maple, yellow poplar, water oak and pines. Removing dead or broken branches, cutting damaged or exposed roots cleanly to enhance regrowth, fertilizing and mulching can promote recovery. Leaning trees can sometimes be reset and staked depending on the angle of the lean.” Some situations may necessitate removal of trees. Those situations include blown-over mature trees with substantial loss of root systems, snapped or twisted trunks, splits in the trunk longer than 25 percent of its length and missing portions of the trees’ crowns. For tree removals, a certified arborist can assist. It is also a good idea to employ a certified arborist to help surviving trees with their recovery. A good maintenance program that includes regular and corrective pruning, fertilization and mulching can be established. Advanced Tree provides tree care, large tree moving and consulting services throughout the Outer Banks in North Carolina. Saving Trees from Construction
Damage: The first step to saving trees from possible construction damage is good planning. Before ground is broken, the location and status of each tree should be mapped and any arrangements to protect the trees during construction should be made. Pre-Construction: Stake out the location of important trees. By changing the design of the angle of a building or walkway, the essential root space of most trees can be preserved. Remove or transplant trees leaning over future structure sites, or those located closer than five feet to a new home. Do not alter terrain except where absolutely necessary. By avoiding leveling, cutting and filling, one can minimize root damage, changes in soil content and depth and changes in natural water flow. During Construction: The most common damage to trees from construction is not physical damage to the above-ground portion of the tree, but rather soil compaction and damage to the roots. This kind of damage is even more difficult to "repair." Therefore, it is extremely important that proper protection measures be taken to prevent damage, so mark all construction roads, parking areas and storage areas to protect trees. Stake out exact locations of trenches and underground utilities, avoiding important root areas. Erect physical barriers around trees near construction activity. Keep in mind that tree roots are mostly in the upper 12 to 18 inches and can spread 2 to 3 times the height of the tree. If barriers are not possible: • Spread several inches of wood chips around the trees; • Pump concrete from a truck via conveyer pipes; • Bridge root areas with plates of steel to avoid soil compaction from construction traffic. More irrigation or drainage systems may be needed in areas where a terrain change is unavoidable. To avoid altering the soil chemistry: • Spread a heavy plastic tarp when mixing concrete or cutting sheet rock. The soil pH can be altered by the alkalinity of these materials; • Do not clean paintbrushes and tools over tree roots; • Chemical wastes should be disposed of properly; • Do not use wood products containing pentachloraphenol. It is deadly to roots. Damaged from the stresses of construction, these trees show severe discoloration. To avoid causing damage, careful planning and protective measures must take place before construction begins. When the skies and soil are as dry as they have been in the last few years, trees become susceptible to damage. Leaves wilt. Tree canopies become sparse and off-color. Individual leaves can be scorched, yellowed and underdeveloped. Growth is stunted for years to come. Preventing Damage in the Midst of a Drought: Water is the most obvious remedy for drought-stressed landscapes. Under prolonged drought and heat conditions, however, the strategy of watering is aimed at survival rather than growth. Grass can usually survive for about one month during the growing season without water. If rainfall doesn’t occur within a four-week period, the crown, located at the soil level, should be protected by periodic watering. Add at least enough water to keep the crown alive — about 1/4 inch per week (1 inch in the South). Because most of the tree’s active roots are within the top foot of soil, attach a watering lance to your hose to get the water directly to the roots once or twice per week. Apply 1-3 gallons of water using 3-foot spacings with the lance. If you don’t have a lance, simply place a lawn sprinkler beneath the tree and let it run as slowly as possible until two inches of water have collected in a can. To help reduce water loss and keep the soil cool around a tree, add mulch to a depth of 3 inches, but avoid mounding the mulch against the base of the tree trunk. Also, be sure to remove dead and dying branches that attract insects and are susceptible to destructive fungal diseases. Proper pruning will also enable tree roots to sustain the rest of the tree more efficiently. Then, once the rains begin, apply fertilizer to help your lawn and trees recover from drought injury. Preventing Long-term Damage: Drought opens the doors for life-threatening borers and pests in trees. Weakened by drought, trees attract hungry pests that devour the vascular tissue. Pest infestations can promote the development of disease. More fertilization program administered by a qualified arborist will give trees the added support they need to survive the drought. By injecting a slow-release fertilizer. The process of soil injection is beneficial to trees because the water and fertilizer are applied directly to the tree's root zone. This improves the flow of oxygen and water to the tree roots. Spring cleanup can be thought as a general “policing” of the landscape. Substantial quantities of litter, fallen tree limbs and leaves can accumulate in a landscape during the fall and winter months. Debris underneath trees, in planting beds, hedgerows and on the lawn need to be collected and removed. In addition to debris removal, spring cleanup may include repair of damage to the lawn near sidewalks and driveways caused by snow plowing. This can include filling in low areas with soil and seeding or sodding. Gravel displaced with snow plowing may need to be put back in the driveway. Dormant lawns comprised of bluegrasses, rye grasses and fescues may have been attacked by a disease known as snow mold. The symptoms of snow mold include circular, matted areas of bleached brown grass. Affected areas may need to be raked out and in some cases reseeded. Frequently at the time of spring cleanup is performed, new mulch is added to ornamental beds. The mulch not only accents the appearance of trees and shrubs but will conserve moisture that will reduce plant stress during droughty summer months. Mulching may include cutting new edges along planting beds and around tree rings. During spring cleanup, plants in the landscape can be evaluated for winter injury. Damage can occur from low and widely fluctuating temperatures and winter drying of plant tissues. Woody ornamental plants frequently damaged during winter include rhododendron, mahonia, holly, English boxwood, magnolia and pyracantha. Pruning dead tissue, fertilization and watering may be necessary to improve the appearance and vigor of injured plants. WHAT TO DO BEFORE PLANTING
A TREE: Before planting any tree, homeowners must consider several environmental factors to match the right tree with the right planting area. First, select the appropriate site: • Available space: Landscape trees need room for the crown and roots to grow. Match the size of the tree at maturity with the available space overhead and underground. • Soil conditions: Poorly drained clay soils in urban areas may need to be amended with a high-quality topsoil to ensure success. Next, select the appropriate species: • Temperature: Low temperatures can freeze and kill living cells in trees. Homeowners should select a species based on its ability to withstand the average minimum temperature in the area. • Surrounding tree species: When selecting trees for planting, consider the other species in the area. Tree species native to the area are often good choices because they are adapted to the local conditions. • Shade tolerance: Some species, like maples and hemlocks, grow well in shade. Others, like birches and pines, are intolerant of shade and require an area in full light. • Soil moisture: Some trees grow better in drier soil than others. Planting those trees in a very wet area can lead to future damage and stunted growth. Proper planting provides trees with a
greater chance of survival. The procedures for planting differ based
on how the trees are grown. Planting seedlings or bare-root trees (trees that are not in containers): 1. Plant the tree as soon as possible after receiving it. If the roots look dry, soak them in a container of water for a few minutes. 2. Loosen soil in an area about 18 inches in diameter and deep enough to accommodate the roots. 3. Clear a spot in the middle of the loose soil that is two or three times as wide as the root system in the tube or pot. 4. Remove the seedling from the tube, pot or bag. 5. Carefully straighten the roots. 6. Place the roots in the soil before they start to dry. 7. Set the seedling at the proper planting depth by placing the root collar (where the roots meet the stem) at the level of the surrounding soil. 8. Spread the loose roots and cover them with soil without kinking or bending them at sharp angles. 9. Lightly pack the soil around the roots. 10. Water thoroughly. 11. Apply 2 to 3 inches of mulch to the entire area of loosened soil. 12. Protect the tree from foot traffic, weed eaters and lawn mowers. 13. Water deeply and frequently. Planting container-grown or balled-and-burlapped trees: 1. Prepare a site by digging a wide, dish-shaped hole at least three times the root-ball diameter. 2. Make sure the sides of the hole are rough and irregular and that the hole is no deeper than the point where the root crown, collar or flares would meet the soil-line after settling. 3. On burlapped plants, remove all wrap and twine, if they are not 100 percent biodegradable, after placing the ball in the hole. On container grown trees, remove the girdling roots. Score the sides with a sharp knife if the roots are pot-bound. 4. Stake the tree only on very wet, sandy and/or windy sites. Drive the stakes into the subsoil close to the root ball before backfilling. Use broad, belt-like material around the tree to the stakes and allow for some sway. 5. Remove all tree wrap. -more 6. Use the soil removed in preparing the hole as backfill. Tamp the soil lightly and water thoroughly. Do not put gravel or fertilizer in the hole bottom. 7. Excess soil should be taken away or used as a water retainer that is no more than 1 to 2 inches high outside of the wide planting hole. 8. Use well-composted organic matter
as mulch cover over the entire digging site. The mulch should be no
more than 3 inches deep at the edge of the hole in towards the drip
line where it tapers. 9. Do not prune the canopy. Only broken, crossing or malformed branches should be pruned at planting. 10. Water the new tree deeply on an as-needed basis over the growing season. Fertilize with a slow-release, low-burn material. Benefits of Proper
Tree Pruning: One of the best ways to improve the health of trees is through routine pruning. Proper pruning prolongs the life and improves the appearance by removing undesirable branches, which are dead, weakened, interfering, diseased or insect infected. Advanced Tree recommends consulting a professional certified arborist who is trained in proper pruning techniques. When done correctly, pruning offers homeowners the following benefits: • Helps prevent storm damage by removing weak branches that might be snapped off during heavy winds or ice storms. • Decreases wind resistance, helping trees move with the wind, which reduces the chance of breaking limbs. • Restores the shape of trees that are out of proportion. Topping Vs. Selective Pruning: Proper pruning should not be confused with the disfiguring practice of topping. Topping is the indiscriminate removal of a tree’s main branches resulting in stubs. The cut surfaces of stubs do not close readily and accelerate internal decay. Topping leaves a tree highly susceptible to damage from strong winds, sunscald, winter injury, insects and diseases. Although the benefits of trees are numerous, they can pose some danger. If a tree falls, it can injure people or cause damage to property. Trees also may fall into utility lines causing power outages, surges or fires. Property owners are responsible for the care and safety of the trees on their property. Signs of Possible Tree Hazards: • Large dead branches in tree • Detached branches hanging in tree • Cavities or rotten wood along trunk or major branches • Mushrooms present at base of tree • Cracks or splits in trunk • History of branches falling • Adjacent trees dead or fallen • Trunk with strong lean • Major branches arise from one point on the trunk • Roots broken, injured or damaged from lowering the soil level, installing pavement, repairing sidewalks or digging trenches • Leaves prematurely develop unusual color or size • Trees in adjacent wooded areas removed • Previously topped or heavily pruned. If any of the above is observed, Call a certified Advanced Tree to get familiar with hazard tree evaluation to inspect the tree. If the tree is near a utility line, call the utility company. How to Manage Tree Hazards: An arborist may suggest the following to reduce the hazard potential of a tree: • Remove picnic tables, cars and landscape features that might be hit by a falling tree. • Perly prune or remove the defective branches of the tree. • Provide physical support for weak branches and stems with cabling and bracing. This will increase their strength and stability. • Recommend best cultural care for a tree including mulching, properly watering, pruning, and fertilization. HOW TO HELP YOUR TREES
RECOVER FROM A FLOOD: Even though trees are amazingly resistant to environmental extremes, long-term flooding can seriously damage your trees. The severity of the effects of the flooding on landscape trees depends on the season, duration of the event, water level and whether or not the water is flowing or stagnant. Here are some facts on flood damage to trees: • In general, flooding is more damaging to trees during the growing season than during the dormant, or winter, season. • Most tree roots can withstand only one to four months of being underwater. • Younger and older, declining trees are the most damaged by flooding. • Flowing water is generally less damaging than standing water because flowing water usually has higher oxygen content. • Colder water is also less damaging because it has the capacity to hold more dissolved oxygen. How trees react to floods: Trees react to flooding and the stressful environment in the following ways: • By slowing growth, • Slowing the growth and expansion of leaves (if the flooding is in the spring), • Yellowing or browning of leaves, and possibly even • Tree death. What to do To help your tree recover from a flood, follow these steps: • Remove dead or dying trees to help limit the spread of secondary pests that attack flood-injured trees. • Prune the branches that have died or been damaged from the flood. • Remove any leftover sediment greater than three inches deep to help oxygen return quickly to the roots. • Consider having a qualified arborist help you with vertical mulching or aeration. • Remember, the impact of flooding may linger for years after the flood waters recede. Monitor tree health annually and alter care levels in response to your trees’ vitality. Flooded soils are rapidly depleted of the oxygen that is required by tree roots to support normal root tissue metabolism and growth. When harsh weather strikes, many trees fall victim to the elements. Heavy ice, whipping winds and lightning can cause extensive damage. However, much of the damage caused by storms can be prevented or minimized by taking the following steps: PRUNING: Storm damage prevention is much less expensive and easier to handle than the aftermath of downed trees. Maintaining a program of proper pruning reduces wind resistance and allows high winds to flow through the trees’ canopies. Maintenance pruning also removes dead or weak branches that could break in storms. Pruning after storms can minimize future damage by removing broken or hazardous limbs. CABLING AND BRACING: Cabling, which is the installation of flexible steel strands between branches, protects trees by transferring the weight from a weak branch to a stronger one. This may prevent limbs from breaking during rough weather. Another approach is to install bracing, which can help prevent the splitting of large limbs from the main trunk. Bracing uses screw rods, washers and nuts to secure limbs in place, allowing bark to grow and reinforce the area. Cables and braces should be installed by a professional arborist. LIGHTNING PROTECTION: Professional arborists can offer a line of defense against lightning strikes by installing a metal cable on the tree. Lightning protection systems transfer the shock of a strike from the trees to the ground. By using flexible steel strands or cables, arborists can prepare trees for the strong winds that accompany storms, or trees can risk nature’s wrath. Topping: A Harmful
Pruning Process: Across the country, trees are being stripped of their canopy. The process, known as topping, leaves trees with stubby limbs and a barren crown. Advanced Tree does not recommend this pruning process. Why are trees topped? Many trees are topped because they grow into utility wires or other obstacles such as houses. Occasionally, landowners become worried about large trees and have them topped to reduce their size. Why is topping bad? Topping can starve a tree. By removing so much of the crown, an older tree’s crown-to-root ratio is upset, which interferes with the plant’s ability to manufacture food. By removing the tree’s cover, the remaining bark is exposed to the direct rays of the sun. Without protection, the tree may be scalded. Additionally, topped trees have a difficult time sealing large wounds and stubs. Sealing is a part of the tree’s natural defense system, so the topped trees are then highly vulnerable to insects and decaying fungi. Topping is intended to control the height of the tree. But in reality, it has the opposite effect. The sprouts after topping are more numerous than natural new growth. In addition, they elongate so quickly that the tree returns to its original height in a very short time. This creates a far more dense and dangerous crown. In the long run, topping is deadly for all trees. Some species are less tolerant of topping than others. Some trees do not sprout readily after topping, which can lead to death. Trees Are the Answer: Facts about trees: Air Pollution: Trees can reduce gaseous air pollutants by 5 percent in the urban environment. Trees are considered an important part of cleaner air in urban areas. Noise Pollution Each 100-foot width of tree can absorb six to eight decibels of sound intensity. Oxygen Production: One acre of trees can produce enough oxygen to keep 18 people alive. For every ton of new wood produced, about 1.3 tons of oxygen is released. A large tree can produce enough air for two people for one year. Carbon Dioxide: Reduction A healthy tree can use about 500 pounds of carbon dioxide per year. For every ton of wood produced, about 1.8 tons of carbon dioxide is removed from the air. A large tree will store the same amount of carbon dioxide as is released by three cars driven 15,000 miles. Cooling in Summer: Three deciduous trees (one each on the southeast, southwest and west) can cut air conditioning costs 10 percent. One study demonstrated a reduction in air conditioning costs of $150 per year. A large tree has the cooling capacity of 15 room air conditioners. Heating in Winter: Evergreen windbreaks on the northwest side of a building can reduce heating costs 10% to 40% by reducing air infiltration. Psychological Benefits: Convalescing patients recuperate up to 15% more quickly when their room has a view of the landscape. Attractive landscaping has also been shown to improve employee productivity, lower absenteeism and enhance recruitment. Real Estate Value: Trees can increase the appraised value of undeveloped land by 27% and of residential properties by 15%. Soil Conservation: Tree planting reduces soil erosion and prevents rapid runoff of water and pollutants in to streams. A large tree can reduce storm water runoff by more than 1,200 gallons a year. For a tree, water can mean the difference between life and death. Too little can lead to dehydration; too much water leads to suffocation. Because of this delicate balance, extremes in watering can cause long-term damage in many trees. Drought: Prolonged dry spells can prompt a tree to shut down photosynthesis, the process that manufactures food. When photosynthesis is inhibited, the tree uses its carbohydrate reserves to sustain life. As a result, the tree has fewer reserves to support new root and shoot growth the following growing season. The most noticeable sign of drought-related damage is early fall coloration. Leaves of drought-stressed trees may droop, wilt, turn yellow or brown at the tips and mid sections. By the time this occurs, the root system has already been damaged. Excessive water: Excessive water damages a tree’s root system by replacing the oxygen in the soil. In addition, the soil becomes compacted, making it difficult for oxygen to reach plant roots. The lack of oxygen damages roots so they no longer efficiently take up water and nutrients. The sign of excessive-water damage is wilted, yellow leaves and root-rot diseases. What to do: Proper watering in the summer and fall
can prevent much of the damage. Check the soil moisture level once a
week to determine the amount of water needed. To check the moisture
level, remove a small amount of soil from the root area. If it crumbles
instead of holding together in a moist ball, the tree needs to be watered.
It has too much water if water comes out of the soil when slightly squeezed.
If the soil is dry, the tree’s root area should be watered enough to
wet the soil to a depth of 10 to 12 inches. This can be done by placing
a hose at a trickle at the base of the tree. If the soil is too wet,
drill-hole aerification can help the tree recover. The process requires
vertical holes to be drilled into the soil to break up compaction and
allow more oxygen to reach the tree roots. Proper watering
can help prevent damage to young trees.
Winter Watering of Evergreens: When winter comes, it’s time for homeowners to give their evergreens a lot of TLC with a little H2O. Proper winter watering is the cheapest, most effective prescription for evergreen health. Winterizing with water: Preparing trees for the winter is a key element to their health. To winterize evergreens, water deeply just before the soil freezes. Cover the watered soil around the plant with mulch to prevent the water from evaporating. Keep the mulch 3 to 4 inches away from the plant stem to avoid injury. The amount of water needed depends on the tree and the type of soil. For example, newly planted trees will need more water than established ones. Trees planted in sandy soil will require more water than ones planted in clay soil. Plants without mulch may require more water than those that are properly mulched. Trees that have not been prepared for the winter may need to be watered more often than winterized trees. The frequency of watering, like the amount, depends on the type of soil and tree, as well as the moisture content of the soil. To check the moisture content, dig 2 to 3 inches into the soil near the trees. If the soil is dry at that depth, it is time to water. It is important to make sure that plants receive adequate watering during the fall before temperatures drop. Importance of watering: Lack of water can lead to damage to foliage, twig dieback, scorching, long-term damage, secondary infestations and rapid or slow decline. When water reserves are low, the leaves and needles may look discolored. The scorched look is created by dead leaf tissue on the outer rim of the leaves. In the winter, trees prepare to grow the leaves that they will need to produce food. If the tree lacks sufficient water, fewer leaves will develop. The trees will not have all the resources necessary to produce food in later months. After several winters of insufficient water from rain or watering, long-term damage can occur, like leaf and root dieback. Additionally, trees stressed by a lack of water can be predisposed to hosts for insect and fungal activity. In addition to proper watering and mulching, fertilization may benefit trees. Studies have shown that proper fertilization done at the right time can improve root growth and development, minimizing injuries caused by low temperatures. Lack of water can lead to twig dieback as shown in this picture. When Mother Nature unleashes her wrath, trees usually bear the brunt of the damage. In order to help trees survive harsh weather and potentially reduce property damage, Advanced Tree recommends that some trees be cabled and/or braced. Cabling: Cabling is the installation
of flexible steel strands in trees to reduce stress damage caused by
high winds, heavy snow and ice and hefty foliage. Cabling benefits for
trees include: • Transferring of weight from a weak branch to a stronger one, preventing breaking limbs. • Adding support for limbs that are joined by included bark. Included bark is bark that has been pushed inside a developing tree crotch, causing a weakened structure. The process requires that trees have a structurally sound root system and be free of excessive decay. Prior to installation, the tree should be pruned to remove hazardous branches, reduce foliage weight and help improve the tree’s structure and improve the air flow through the tree. After installation, cables should be inspected periodically for deterioration and changes in the tree. Bracing: Even if they are pruned regularly, large limbs can sometimes split at area where they join the main trunk (the crotch). Bracing uses screw rods and washers and nuts to secure split limbs. A rod extending from the trunk to the limb is used to bring the split crotch together and hold it in place so that the bark can grow and reinforce the area of the split. This method can be used where breakage has occurred but the branch has not split to any great degree. The installation of several rods may stop further splitting and prevent the entry of moisture and rot organisms. Cables and braces should be installed by a certified arborist. Cables help reduce stress damage caused by high winds, heavy snow and ice and hefty foliage. For trees, proper care can promote a lifetime of health and strength. An adequate water supply, protective mulch, fertilization and regular pruning ensure that many trees continue to flourish. WATERING: he watering needs of trees vary depending on the species, soil type, site drainage and rainfall. A general rule is to apply one gallon of water for every square foot of surface area under the tree drip line. In addition to regular watering in spring and summer watering, it is important to water late in fall. Late-fall watering helps to insulate tree roots against rapid freezing and thawing. A moist root zone is better able to resist temperature changes than a dry one. MULCHING: Mulch helps conserve soil moisture year-round and slows soil cooling in late fall, which prevents root damage. Mulch should be applied so that it slopes inward toward the trunk. It should be maintained at a depth of 2 inches on clay soils and 4 inches on sandy soils at the tree’s drip line. Never pile mulch against the tree’s trunk. FERTILIZING: By fertilizing in the spring, trees will receive a nutrient boost needed for the upcoming growing season. Fertilization promotes the root growth that occurs in early spring. As the root system grows, the crown or shoot system will grow in proportion. Shoot growth typically occurs in late spring/early summer as root growth slows down. Slow-release fertilizers that contain nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium provide the best source of nutrition for trees. Trees treated with a slow-release fertilizer are less likely to suffer from over-fertilization. In addition, these fertilizers are less likely to wash away. Professional arborists apply fertilizer through a process called soil injection. A mixture of fertilizer and water is applied to the roots. PRUNING: Regular pruning benefits trees in the following ways: • Prolongs life and improves health and appearance by removing damaged or diseased branches; • Helps prevent storm damage by removing weak branches that might be snapped off during heavy winds; • Decreases wind resistance, helping trees move with the wind, which reduces the chance of breaking limbs; • Restores the shape of trees that are out of proportion. Advanced Tree recommends consulting a professional certified arborist who is trained in proper pruning techniques. Minimizing Winter
Storm Damage: Throughout North America, the winter months bring hazardous weather. Winds, snow, rain and ice threaten the continent’s landscape, particularly the trees. To help minimize damage caused by winter weather, homeowners can take the following steps: Proper pruning: Thinning the tree canopy allows wind to blow through the crown, instead of against it. This is similar to a sail. Properly pruned trees are less likely to suffer breakage or to topple because they offer less resistance to high winds. Cabling and bracing: Strong metal cables and rods are used to relieve the strain that causes structurally weak trees to split and break in hazardous weather. Cabling and bracing provides a support system to reduce the potential for fork splitting and branch breakage. Lightning Protection: Lightning strikes trees because they provide better conduction of the electrical charge than the surrounding air. When a tree is damaged by lightning, it may be severely blown apart or may only produce a spiraling dead area on the trunk. The installation of a lightning protection system in your valuable trees will prevent this destruction by conducting the electrical charge to the ground and bypassing the tree itself. For Cold Regions: In regions plagued by snow and ice storms,
trees are a great risk for extensive damage. Severe cold temperatures
can cause roots and branches to freeze. Ice and snow weigh down branches,
leading to breakage. To prevent a great deal of damage, homeowners can
mulch trees in addition to the steps recommended above. Mulching serves
as insulation and maintains moisture for delicate root systems during
the winter. |
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